admin answers:

Look at www.dol.gov, and it will give you a wealth of information. Especially under the Occupational Outlook Handbook. It will give you the education needed, job outlook until 2014, salary, work conditons, hiring companies, etc. We need more alternative energy available and I want to commend you for looking into this field. Good luck and Peace.

admin answers:

It depends on your interests. Electrical engineering (including power transmission) and software engineering are used in this field, but it might take awhile to get a job with an energy-related company. Obviously chemical engineering is a big part of developing cheap but efficient solar panels. But if quantum mechanics and differential equations scare you too much (they are quite learnable with the right background, attitude and teachers), then there are options outside of engineering.

Architecture is needed to actually design buildings to incorporate passive and active solar energy. A lot of time would also be spent on HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) and building materials, just as important for a green building.

You could also go into sales or business fields and then pick your industry afterward.

admin answers:

The one EV car I currently have (have 2 vehicles that run on hydrogen also) I converted from a vw bug and is free to charge. As I live completely off the grid all my electricity comes from solar panels and 2 wind generators, which I also built.

However I did charge up at Costco in Carlsbad California (I actually only drove up there to fill up) if I remember right it was around $2.00

Not sure if you’re interesting in doing it yourself, but I’d be willing to walk you step by step threw the conversion. I’ve converted 3 of my own cars (a datsun truck, ford ban, and a vw bug) and a few for neighbors. I’ve also converted cars to run on hydrogen, ethanol and biodiesel, by far EV is the easiest.

If you’re interested here’s what it would entitle…

– The engine compartment is first cleaned out of any gasoline components.
– Electric components are then installed in exchange.
– A battery bank is built and incorporated.
– Existing starter and driving systems are connected.
– Turn the key, step on the gas pedal sending more energy to the electric motor, & thus more power to the drive system, which in return creates more speed, more acceleration.
– The system has normal automotive top speeds and acceleration, typical to the vehicle your modifying. If your top speed was 85 mph and your acceleration was 1 mile per min, then this will be what your left with after the conversion.

The methods are extremely simple, making the process possible for anyone, everyone, ANYWHERE.

Typical tools, hardware & supplies are used, making access to parts available for all.

Electric Conversions can be easily accomplished in ANY model vehicle, even tractors, Generators, types of machinery, etc.

Project lengths range from 1 day to 1 month.
If you’re interested I wrote a guide on it which is available at www agua-luna com

My last EV conversion ran me about $1400. Everything is available online. I have a how to do it yourself guide available at www agua-luna com that will walk you step by step through the process. If you have ANY questions feel free to contact me through the site. Here’s a list of what you’d need…

Advanced DC Motor
The motor is an 8″ Advanced DC series-wound motor. It weighs 107 pounds and is rated at 68 peak horsepower. These motors are available in several sizes.

Adaptor plate
The adaptor plate mates the motor to the transmission. It is constructed of 1/2 inch aluminum and is pre-drilled with bolt hole patterns for both the motor and transmission. An aluminum spacer is also used for proper spacing between the shafts of the transmission and motor. Adaptor plates are available for many cars.

DC Motor Controller
The controller regulates current going to the motor. It is a solid-state device that uses a pulse width modulator (PWM) that sends short bursts of current to the motor at a rate of 15 kHz. Controllers are available from both Curtis and DCP.

Potbox (Potentiometer)
The potbox is a 5K ohm throttle between the controller and the accelerator, similar to the way a sewing machine pedal works. The potbox’s lever arm is attached to the existing accelerator cable.

Main Contactor
An electric relay that serves the same purpose as the ignition switch in a gas car. When the key is turned to the start position, the contactor closes the circuit to allow current to flow to the controller.

Circuit Breaker
A safety device that shuts down power for servicing or during an emergency. The circuit breaker is installed under the hood and can be switched both off and on from the drivers seat with an extension or cable.

Main Fuse
The main fuse protect the system from high voltage spikes. A fuse should be installed at each battery box or group of batteries.

Shunt
A shunt is placed in series within the wiring as a means to connect meters. Shunts are available in different sizes for both high and low power configurations.

Charger interlock
A relay that keeps the circuit open so nobody will inadvertantly drive off with the charge cord plugged into the car.

DC/DC Converter
The DC/DC converter is similar in function to a gas car’s alternator. It charges the 12 volt accessory battery by chopping voltage from the main battery pack down to 13.5 volts.

If you interested I offer several DIY alternative guides to walk you step by step threw EV conversion process at agua-luna com or

www agua-luna com
Hope this helped, feel free to contact me personally if you have any questions if you’d like assistance in making your first self sufficient steps, I’m willing to walk you step by step threw the process. I’ve written several how-to DIY guides available at www agua-luna com on the subject. I also offer online and on-site workshops, seminars and internships to help others help the environment.

Dan Martin
Alterative Energy / Sustainable Consultant, Living 100% on Alternative & Author of How One Simple Yet Incredibly Powerful Resource Is Transforming The Lives of Regular Peop

admin answers:

The one EV car we currently have (have 2 vehicles that run on hydrogen also, 1 Ethanol & 1 Biodiesel) we converted from a vw bug & is free to charge. As The Ranch is completely off the grid all electricity comes from solar panels & wind generators, which we also built ourselves.

However I did charge up at Costco charging station in Carlsbad California (I actually only drove up there to fill up) if I remember right it was around $2.00

Not sure if you’re interesting in doing it yourself, but I’d be willing to walk you step by step threw the conversion. I’ve converted 3 of my own cars (a datsun truck, ford van, & a vw bug) & a few for neighbors. I’ve also converted cars to run on hydrogen, ethanol & biodiesel, by far EV is the easiest.

If you’re interested here’s what it would entitle…

– The engine compartment is first cleaned out of any gasoline components.
– Electric components are then installed in exchange.
– A battery bank is built & incorporated.
– Existing starter & driving systems are connected.
– Turn the key, step on the gas pedal sending more energy to the electric motor, & thus more power to the drive system, which in return creates more speed, more acceleration.
– The system has normal automotive top speeds & acceleration, typical to the vehicle your modifying. If your top speed was 85 mph & your acceleration was 1 mile per min, then this will be what your left with after the conversion.

The methods are extremely simple, making the process possible for anyone, everyone, ANYWHERE.

Typical tools, hardware & supplies are used, making access to parts available for all.

Electric Conversions can be easily accomplished in ANY model vehicle, even tractors, Generators, types of machinery, etc.

Project lengths range from 1 day to 1 month.
If you’re interested I wrote a guide on it which is available at www agua-luna com

My last EV conversion ran me about $1400. Everything is available online. Here’s a list of what you’d need…

Advanced DC Motor
The motor is an 8″ Advanced DC series-wound motor. It weighs 107 pounds & is rated at 68 peak horsepower. These motors are available in several sizes.

Adaptor plate
The adaptor plate mates the motor to the transmission. It is constructed of 1/2 inch aluminum & is pre-drilled with bolt hole patterns for both the motor & transmission. An aluminum spacer is also used for proper spacing between the shafts of the transmission & motor. Adaptor plates are available for many cars.

DC Motor Controller
The controller regulates current going to the motor. It is a solid-state device that uses a pulse width modulator (PWM) that sends short bursts of current to the motor at a rate of 15 kHz. Controllers are available from both Curtis & DCP.

Potbox (Potentiometer)
The potbox is a 5K ohm throttle between the controller & the accelerator, similar to the way a sewing machine pedal works. The potbox’s lever arm is attached to the existing accelerator cable.

Main Contactor
An electric relay that serves the same purpose as the ignition switch in a gas car. When the key is turned to the start position, the contactor closes the circuit to allow current to flow to the controller.

Circuit Breaker
A safety device that shuts down power for servicing or during an emergency. The circuit breaker is installed under the hood & can be switched both off & on from the drivers seat with an extension or cable.

Main Fuse
The main fuse protect the system from high voltage spikes. A fuse should be installed at each battery box or group of batteries.

Shunt
A shunt is placed in series within the wiring as a means to connect meters. Shunts are available in different sizes for both high & low power configurations.

Charger interlock
A relay that keeps the circuit open so nobody will inadvertently drive off with the charge cord plugged into the car.

DC/DC Converter
The DC/DC converter is similar in function to a gas car’s alternator. It charges the 12 volt accessory battery by chopping voltage from the main battery pack down to 13.5 volts.

Hope this helped, feel free to contact me personally if you have any questions if you’d like assistance in making your first self sufficient steps, I’m willing to walk you step by step threw the process. I’ve written several how-to DIY guides available at www agua-luna com on the subject. I also offer online & on-site workshops, seminars & internships to help others help the environment.

Dan Martin

admin answers:

Electric motors produce mechanical power from electrical power. If the power is 1hp, the power is 746 watts. The motor needs more than 746 watts of electrical power to produce 746 watts of mechanical power. However it only produces 746 watts of mechanical power if it is driving a load that needs that power.

The motor bike spark plug may require 10-15000V certainly, but that is not electrical power, it is only voltage. Electrical power has 2 components, voltage and current. The current in the spark may be only 2 milliamps. Thus the peak power is 10,000V x 0.002A = 20W. Additionally that is only for a brief part of the time. There is just one spark every 2 revolutions of the engine, maybe 25 sparks a second, so a spark is a small percentage of the time. The energy (in watt-seconds) is very small.

If the motorbike has a battery, it is charged by a small generator on the motorbike. This is 6V or 12V battery, a far more suitable source of power to drive an electric motor. However this battery would usually be too small for a 1 or 2 hp motor.

Working out the power for the motor, lets say 1000W of electrical power is needed to produce 746W (one hp) of mechanical power. With a 12V battery the current = 1000W / 12V = 83A. You need a battery that can deliver 83A per hp for as long as you wish to run the motor. You need something to charge that battery. An 80Ah battery would run for 1 hour in theory, but more like 20 minutes in practice. You would use a higher voltage and bigger battery for better efficiency, maybe a 24V battery and motor. It is possible to charge this battery using solar panels or a home generator. However it is more efficient (cheaper) to run the suitable motor directly from the generator, than to use the generator to charge the battery and run a motor.

You are asking a lot of questions, good to learn, but you should explain the big picture, what you actually want to do. What is the motor for? How long to run? What power source is available? Power from electricity suppliers is usually the cheapest.

admin answers:

The big “hidden” problem with wind and solar power generation is that we can’t store electricity in the amounts necessary to keep everything going when the wind stops or sun goes down. This means that when the wind stops blowing or the sun is hidden by clouds (or at night), some other means of production of electricity has to exist. We cannot run cities and factories on batteries charged when it’s windy or when the sun is shining. This means that EITHER we have to maintain the “old, polluting” systems such as coal, gas, water and nuclear OR we have to DO WITHOUT through rationing via brownouts, blackouts, use restrictions, etc.

Assume that you live in an area that uses 1000Mw of power. Right now, you have two coal fired plants and a hydroelectric plant (dammed river & generators) to produce the 1000Mw needed. Joe Thompson, billionaire, decides to start a wind farm. At peak capacity, his 1000 wind turbines produce 500Mw of power. So, when the wind turbines are running at full capacity, one coal plant can be shut down and the other can go to 75%. This allows for 1000Mw of power to be fed to the electric grid. Without shutting down the coal plants, there would be more electricity on the grid than demand, which is a no-no.
Now, the wind stops for a few days. The coal plants kick back in and go to 100% production to maintain the 1000Mw on the local grid.

Since the coal plants are unable to be profitable at 0% and 75%, the owners of the coal plants shut them down and stop producing. The hydroelectric and wind production are all that remain. Joe Billionaire builds enough wind turbines to replace the coal plants (while the wind is blowing). Everything is green, until the wind stops and the amount of power available drops to 0 (or whatever the hydro plant is producing).
Then, everything stops and everyone is in the dark.

Power supplies HAVE to be stable. Nuclear, Coal, Gas, and hydroelectric have been and can continue to be stable steady suppliers. Wind and solar will ALWAYS be temperamental and will require backup production by the sources they’re supposed to replace. If those backup sources have to be maintained, the price of electricity from “free” wind will skyrocket. Having idle power facilities is like having a Ferrari in your driveway as a backup car for when your Prius breaks down. It still has to be washed, insured, and paid for, but you get nothing out of it. Eventually, you get rid of the Ferrari. Then your Prius breaks and you walk.